Sia Arnika

Sia Arnika’s AW23 collection showcased on the first day and it gets a clear cut yes from us. The designer paraded her latest visions of fashion looks for AW23, with what seemed like an endless spectrum of inspiration behind the pieces. Danish born, she roped in influence from Nordic mystic beliefs and old folk tales. Arnika, being a visionary of many influences, meant this collection was not as straightforward as designing off a basis of ancestral and cultural insights. A science-fiction and futuristic element was conveyed throughout the collection which cleverly merged the past and future into one entity. The collection’s themes defy societal norms as well as our reality of timing and events.

We spotted so many of 2023’s predicted trends evolving in Arnika’s latest collection. Small ruffling was used on garments in a delicate manner, as well as low-rise waistlines. We were also pleased to see her notorious cuts were welcomed back, giving dresses and trousers a modernistic and edgy flair. Black was the staple colour within the set of inspired designs, although hues of her previous SS23 collection crept their way in. Pastel pink briefly returned and her preceding use of green developed into a bright lime this time around. Commonly featured in partnership with the garments were oversized silver earrings which gave-off an edgy, sharp aesthetic. Leather styles were constructed in gorgeous brown hues as well as the classic and notorious black. As a whole, the collection gave us everything we wanted- it gave us an elegant twist on Berlin street-style, it captured the future direction of fashion trends and it screamed Sia Arnika.

Malaika Raiss

The cakes were delicious, but the designs were even tastier. We are still riding off the sugar-high that Berlin-based designer Malaika Raiss’s bestowed upon us at her presentation. Her ‘Euphoria’ bridalwear collection immersed us in the moment as gorgeously iced cakes sat (firstly untouched) among models who wore her first-ever bridal collection. Love was definitely in the air and we were swept off our feet with the breath-taking designs. Although the collection signifies ‘mixed feelings’, we only had one feeling, and that feeling was pure ecstasy.

Recycled fabrics and sustainable fibres are initiatives we are on board with, and how could you disagree when the designs look like the ‘Euphoria’ bridal collection. A very casual approach was taken for the presentation which we think highlighted how stunningly elegant the collection pieces were. Models stood and lazed about nonchalantly which showed us how the beauty of the designs spoke for themselves.

Silks and satins constructed into full length gowns presented in various shades of cream, captivated the crowds. Well-tailored suits and sequined gowns also stood out as more alternative choices for the modern bride. High necklines, silver footwear (including our seasonal favourite -the ballet flat) and silver embellished jewellery at the show sparked our trend radar. Bridal hoods and veils were featured, however, as a whole the collection emphasised the power of minimalism. And yes, cake consumption, of course, occurred.

SF10G

The brand who is new to the game, but does not let on. Looking at the success and storytelling power of SF10G, it is hard to believe they were only founded in 2019. Contemporary styles and elegance clash producing a product of experimental minimalism.

The AW23 collection evolved from their SS23, featuring a wider range of colour and more conventionally classic styles. They touched upon and played with sensuality in their looks, as opened jackets and blazers were worn on top of bare skin which created a subtle exposure of the body. Leather and feathers were adopted in selected looks and beiges and browns (AW favourites) dominated the styles.

Platte Berlin

Not was all as it seemed at the Platte on the kick off day of the Fashion Week. What at first seemed like an announcement from Adidas detailing their new fair treatment of garment workers, soon turned out to be a hoax. The hoax described the appointment of a Cambodian supply-chain worker as co-CEO as well as signing fairer working conditions for overseas workers. Those responsible for the stunt were Threads and Tits, Clean Clothes Campaign and The Yes Men. The environmental activist groups created the spectacular to shine light on how Adidas could take action and responsibility for their employees and end the inhumane conditions the workers are subjected to. They highlighted the idea of contrast that although the stunt was false, the reality of the problems and possible solutions are real.

The show had models covered in dirt crawling across the runway portraying the hardship of labour and poverty experienced within the company’s production line. A child also walked the runway, suggesting the use of child labour during the creation of garments. The distressed garments on show were said to have been previously worn by textile workers and then reworked into purchasable items- ‘Suffering-Forward REALITYWEAR’.

ODEEH

ODEEH certainly do not box themselves in. Allowing themselves to creatively explore whatever they feel and not being afraid to produce differentiating aesthetics mean the garments are experimental and unpredictable. Emphasis on colours and contrasting patterns are notably key to the designers’ work and we were super hyped with their latest play on those techniques. Leading the positive change, the collection was also produced from entirely re-used deadstock, re-cycled and sustainable materials.

The collection styled layers on layers of patterned pieces including stripes, natural motifs and harsher Aztec shapes. A heavy use of lightweight materials featured in the collection such as shirts and neck scarves which created an airy and breezy aesthetic. In contrast, other looks layered long trench coats with chunky scarves and cosy knit jumpers. Colours were more muted compared to past collections from the brand, but the classic autumnal shades, blues and greens definitely had their moment. Oversized bags, opaque tights and fringing was catching our eyes on this runway for AW23 style.

Acceptance Letter Studio

‘The Universal Baths’ collection not only excites, but also unifies. Sensuality, queer joy and unity are captured and celebrated within the collection creating a fabulous entourage of fashion forward styles. The main source of their inspiration was pulled from the -at the time- shocking ‘Continental Baths’ which ran in New York during the 1970s. A place which rightly holds an influential spot in gay culture, club culture and queer history, it is only right to continue praising in modern-day fashion.

Carefully deconstructed garments gave attention to the identity and expression of the wearer. Red, blue and pink, pop against the bulk of the collection which favours neutrals. Dresses over shirts, socks and sandals and eccentric body exposures express the non-conventional themes of the pieces. Equally constructed of matte fabrics as well as materials with a high shine appearance, the range of clothing coordinates two opposing aesthetics.

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

_{Graphic Header Image By Mia Washbrook}

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