Di Petsa

Greek designer Di Petsa channelled her recent heartbreak into one of the most talked about collections for the week. The collection took inspiration from the designers own Greek Orthadox upbringing and with Greece just finally legalizing same sex marriage, the collection was a fitting display of love.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3iuSGPN3U4/?hl=en}

With high profile models like Cindy Kimberly, Duckie and Jessie Jo Stark dripping in bells – the show definitely impressed. The collection encapsulated the overall goddess theme of the Di Petsa brand, with a display of Venus being birthed on the runway mixed with their signature wet look, trompe-l’oeil illusion dresses.

_{https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2024-ready-to-wear/di-petsa/slideshow/collection#23}

Sinead O’Dwyer

Last Season, Irish designer Sinead O’Dwyer hosted her show at her alma matter – The London Royal College of Art MA classroom. The designer chatted with a journalist as her models walked and displayed her pieces. It was a refreshing change for attendees and set excitement for her proceeding shows. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3cakXUtaZ1/?hl=en&img_index=10}

This year, the show was hosted at the Old Selfridges hotel, pivoting to a far more central focal point, which was a theme that seemed to extend to the clothes. The designer went back to the brands basics and expressed she focussed her design on body shape, “I design for a diverse body, that’s the thing that drives the brand.” Which we can completely identify with here at VOIR. “From the very beginning of every design, I’m thinking about those body shapes, what sort of garments they might want to wear and how I can interpret things.”

_{https://wwd.com/runway/fall-2024/london/sinead-odwyer/review/}

Simone Rocha

After a jaw dropping display of mature elegance at Paris Haute Couture fashion week, Simone Rocha is riding the wave right into London. The Irish born designer seems to be on an ever-proceeding incline to becoming one of the biggest names in fashion after taking over the Jean Paul Gautier show and receiving praise from the designer himself.

_{https://www.instagram.com/simonerocha_/?hl=en}

Her London Collection took a far more playful, childlike approach with models carrying stuffed animal toys as accessories. She also took the opportunity to announce yet another Rocha x Crocs collaboration, which worked perfectly with the youthful vibe of the collection. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3kaYXZMBwf/?hl=en&img_index=1}

JW Anderson

JW Anderson put a charming womenswear spin on the eclectic Grandpa trend that’s been circulating for the last few months. They did this by utilising chunky knits, thick wool coats, tweed, English style under garments and lots of slippers.

_{https://www.instagram.com/jw_anderson/?hl=en}

Anderson cited Last of the Summer Wine, a British sit com based around old age pensioners in Yorkshire, as one of his key inspirations.  He captured this Northern aesthetic perfectly and the collection offered itself as a comfortable slice of British nostalgia.

_{https://www.instagram.com/jw_anderson/?hl=en}

Dilara Findikoglu

Turkish-british Dilara Fındıkoğlu has become one of the most anticipated collections, not down to but aided by her recent success dressing Margot Robbie for the Barbie premiere after party. The designer chose to host her show in a church, which she sees as a “safe space”. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/dilarafindikoglu/?hl=en}

The much-awaited collection consisted of corsets, bodices, bright reds and deconstructed under garments. The idea behind the collection was to “destroy the corporate man “and rebel against male-built society. “I am really into the female form and as a female designer, I just need to celebrate the body,” Fındıkoğlu was reported saying.

_{https://www.instagram.com/dilarafindikoglu/?hl=en}

Dreaming Eli

Dreaming Eli is one of the designers to watch, founded by the incredibly talented Elisa Trombatore, who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2021 with an MA in Fashion. The brand aims to empower women and fight against stereotypes through it’s designs, encouraging power in femininity as well as balancing it with power and danger. 

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3fDK4vt3EZ/?hl=en&img_index=1}

Her SS24 collection was titled “Wild Hearts Bleed” and the entire collection encapsulates her the strength and beauty of femininity. The designer achieved this by using boned corsets with hard structured silhouettes, and pairing them with soft colours and delicate fabrics.

_{https://www.instagram.com/p/C3kjwYyI9Oj/?hl=en&img_index=6}

_{Written By Lauren Dickson}

The post LFW40: Whilst Celebrating 40 Years Of London Fashion Week, Who Stole The Show? appeared first on Voir Fashion.

 “I’ve been in the industry for so long,” says Sue Dray, yet her passion for her work remains fresh and current, noticeable through her work ethos and approach to the arts. 

The artistic realm is often described as an interconnected world, where different arts, industries, and professions connect or even interchange, but it is not always easy to find a balance between them… However, the British fashion illustrator has managed to do so, combining her interest in human interpretation and conveyance through both illustration and fashion – as done through her live drawing work at London fashion week.

We had the opportunity to talk to Sue Dray and find out more about her perception of the arts, work throughout the years and plans for the future.

How did you first discover your passion for illustration? And how did you enter the industry of fashion illustration?

“I’ve always liked drawing people and I’ve always been into fashion, even if I didn’t remain in fashion when studying at the London College of fashion – I came out as an illustrator.

But it was only really years later, in 2009, when I was asked to go into London College of fashion as a lecturer…  I remember looking at my profile and thinking, gosh, here I am teaching the next generation of fashion illustrators and I, I really haven’t got a profile that I am a fashion Illustrator. So, I reinvented myself as a fashion Illustrator around 2011. 

I went out and started drawing at London Fashion Week and building up a niche for myself as a fashion Illustrator… I went, okay, I can do it. I’m going to put myself through the same course I’m teaching and I’m going to become a fashion illustrator, per se, that’s kind of how it happened. 

I’ve always loved clothes. I’ve always loved designing, making, and wearing my own clothes. I’ve always liked developing my own style and my own niche, so it felt natural for me to move into fashion illustration because of my love for clothes.”

How do you manage to express your love for clothes and the beauty of fashion through illustration?

“My work is almost the opposite of what fashion is meant to represent for women. Therefore for me, the people came first. I was very lucky, some of my first commissions were to draw from the catwalk, for people like Pam Hogg, and, and Vivienne Westwood. All their models were very unique, so it was very much about marrying the bizarre nature of the clothes too. 

But when I was drawing, it was always drawing from live events. And it was always about drawing really, quickly, so I didn’t have the time to focus on every single detail, and it was just about capturing the essence of that collection, the silhouettes, of the colourway or the textures or the fabric. So, my drawings became more conceptual, it was more an impression of what I saw in that collection. So, they become quite personal to me, which is why I say that I’m a fashion artist, not a hardcore illustrator.”

What is your perception of the current fashion industry? Is it directed towards a positive change? And is this present in your illustrations?

“I think that obviously yes, we’re all becoming aware of all the issues that are out there. We are becoming aware of the importance of the representation of all the different types of people, cultures, and genders and, you know, worse and the fashion industry obviously, is, is super sensitive to that. And the fashion industry is starting to reflect it. 

I’m being represented in the world of fashion; I can actually see people who are a bit similar to myself. So, I think the fashion industry is doing their best, and they have to because we are the communicators to younger generations. There is a big responsibility to engage in that.”

Out of all the artists, brands, and publications you have collaborated with or worked for, which one would you say was the most rewarding one? And why?

“I think that what was most thrilling for me, obviously, was being backstage at Vivienne Westwood drawing. That was like tingling because I’ve always admired Vivienne Westwood. I used to pass her shop back in the 80s in Kings Road and I used to be so intimidated by going in because I wasn’t punk. But her clothes are beautiful yet so brave. When you wear them, you know that you’re wearing something important and it gives you so much power and confidence, just like her shows.

But I think that the other most humbling experience I’ve ever had, and one of the most memorable, was working for Karen Millen. I went out to South Africa, Pietermaritzburg, and I worked to set up a school there for young people who have been affected by HIV – in collaboration with hope HIV.   We set up a school to teach a selected hand full of young people fashion skills.  The school was giving them skills to be able to make clothes and now some students are getting scholarships to go off to Johannesburg into the art college. Those kids were like nobody else I had ever taught.”

How do you manage to keep a balance between the different areas of your job? Alternating between commissions, live events and teaching? 

“I don’t know, really. I’m a bit of a workaholic, I can’t sit still. Even when I’m watching television, I can’t sit there and watch television it will drive me crazy. So you know,  I constantly have to be doing something. I like to be kept busy. And I like to be inspired. And so for me, my downtime is actually doing things. When I was a solid illustrator and I wasn’t teaching at all, back in the 80s after 10 solid years of illustrating,  if I didn’t have any commissions in and there was no work coming in, which actually wasn’t very often but it sometimes happened,  I would think, right, I have to do my own work and I’m going to start getting work together for an exhibition. So I just sort of set myself goals, I decide what I want to do and I make a list of all the things that I want to achieve and then I set the time to time tick them off.

So it’s mostly by reaching deadlines, setting yourself agendas, making myself lists, and really disciplining myself to be in that particular space at that particular time. That’s how I do it,  I don’t have any golden tips. I think it’s just passion, and it’s the passion for what I do and wanting to do the best I possibly can.”

What advice would you give to young creators, graphic illustrators, especially to creatives that are trying to get their work out there?

“ You’ve got to find out who is the art director or art buyer of all the publications you would like to be featured in is and make direct contact with them. Also, Instagram has to be professional. Try not to put anything else on there. I mean yes, you can put your pictures on there if you’re out somewhere fabulous and look great, but it has to present yourself as professional or have a  separate Instagram and Facebook for your professional work. And constantly keep working at your craft, whatever that is, let’s say that you’re a fashion illustrator, you’re constantly drawing, you’re constantly keeping up with the trends, with the designers and what they’re doing, with their collections, keep yourself really current.

I think you’ve got to stay active and keep in mind that networking is great. You also want to know who’s out there and who’s doing what and make connections with them. Because it is a little bit of that as well. A lot of making connections and keeping the connections alive and be genuine. Be yourself. Be genuine. Be honest. I think that’s what has worked for me.”

Words By Chiara Ferrari

_{Photo Credit: Sue Dray Instagram}

The post An Interview With Sue Dray; The London Based Illustrator Who Brought Live Drawing To London Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.