Emanual Ungaro

Emanual Ungaro’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is the epitome of both a fresh summer afternoon and the brand’s roots in fashion. Indulging in print, each piece speaks to Ungaro’s ‘sensual obsessive’ nature: his obsession with colours and pattern, his daring to be different and his attention to detail. The collection orients around three patterns: a multi-coloured floral, a monochrome floral and a monochrome spot. The effect of this is that in isolation each piece is impactful, demonstrating the ‘clashes of bright colours and prints’ that the Maison prides itself on. In combination, however, the pieces manage to create a simultaneity of energies. Emanual Ungaro’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is an effortless yet intentional fashion statement, embodying both the calm breeze of a summer day and the power of fashion.

Leonard Paris

Titled ‘Silky Wave’, Leonard Paris’ ready to wear Spring Summer 2021 collection is an indulgent romance with colour. Filmed against the ocean, the presentation emits freedom, the wave acting as a metaphor for the power of our soul and our dreams, the strength we all hold within us. This is directly spoken for through the centrality of the orchid throughout the brand and the pieces, a flower “without geometric limits”. With the Hawaiian shirt being each piece’s commonality, there is an optimism which speaks to the collection’s artistic intention: being ‘a true ode to freedom found’. The vibrancy of each pattern, the fine line between harmony and discord, creates an energy which is evidently steeped in the brand’s roots in Chinese art. The richness of colour, combined with the luxe of silk, creates a buoyancy which perfectly embodies the sun-soaked summer days which winter dreams of.

@leonardparis Instagram

Loewe

The Spring 2021 ready-to-wear collection (titled ‘fantasies and realities’) is experimentation, and subsequent manipulation, of the silhouette. Described by Jonathan Anderson, creative director, as ‘a story of dramatic silhouettes exploring the craft of pattern making’, the collection voyages into both clothing and bags, the common thread being an exploration of our past, the new present, and the unpredictable future in relation to the art of fashion. There is an emphasis on detail in Loewe’s ready-to-wear pieces: hand-embroidered, hand-woven and hand-made forming the foundation of each piece. There is a movement to the collection, an accentuation of angles and shapes which is referenced by the house as ‘a sculptural extremization of fashion’. The collaging of material textures with tailoring demonstrates this greatly: the knotting of a highly sequined ball gown manifests as a glamourous ballgown, a relationship both unexpected yet perfect. It is the essence of the unexpected, which Loewe has incorporated so well, also building it into their new bag collection. A re-modelling of their adored classics, the bags have merged history with shape and texture; this is apparent in the Shell Bag, inspired by nineteenth-century clay work.

Loewe SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

Issey Miyake

Labeled ‘UNPACK THE COMPACT’, Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2021 collection is divided into five different concepts: FORM BODY, TO GO, OUT A PIECE, SPONGY AND TEMPORARY ROOM. Each part of the collection places emphasis on the joy of unpacking, intending to demonstrate the transportability – and thus the universality – of their clothing. This links strongly with the house’s core attitude toward fashion, seeking to demonstrate the relationship between the body and the cloth, the concept, and joy behind ‘a piece of cloth’. ‘Form Body’ sees moulded and minimalistic vests which are dissectable by the sole zip feature; ‘To Go’ uses water repellent material and is focussed on the compactness of its pieces, said to reflect and suit active people; ‘Out A Piece’ again centres around the zip and universality, presenting simultaneously angled and rounded silhouette; ‘Spongy’ is a stretchable compactable knit collection which seamlessly and effortlessly lines the body; ‘Temporary Room’ imitates artwork and painting, the pieces being a collage of fragments from a picture of a living room. The dynamics of Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2021 collection create a movement to cloth and fabric which is often overlooked by designers. Consequently, the house has both reinstalled and reinstated the joy of cloth and the power of clothing in relation to our living body.

Issey Miyake SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

@isseymiyakeoffical Instagram

Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci’s Spring 2021 ready-to-wear is inspired by their perfume ‘L’Air du Temps: a fragrance created after the second world war and representing ‘hope, optimism, and revival’. This concept is reflected in the fluidity of the collection’s pieces, their use of material being loose fitted and flowing as opposed to their traditional form-fitting and tailored structure. Whilst still true to their feminine, lady-like foundations, there is a playfulness to the collection’s interpretation of Spring fashion. Its incorporation of hats, alongside varying inclusions of colour and pattern, creates a beautiful blend between material and movement. The lack of severity to each piece, the enjoyment in cuts and fabrics, creates a truly gorgeous collection.

NINA RICCI – Spring/Summer 2021

Nina Ricci SS21 Collection images via Vogue Runway

Words by Hannah Emmery

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With another season of fashion weeks drawing to a close, and despite the somewhat sombre mood that swept the fashion capitals from New York to Paris, the Autumn/Winter 2020 catwalks offered plenty of food for thought on how to get dressed come next autumn, with a wealth of trends unfolding fresh off the runway.

Leather

Leather is a winter wardrobe mainstay season after season, but a plethora of AW20 collections explored new styles and silhouettes. Coach offered a lesson is layering leather, with colour-blocked leather culottes, midi-skirts and button-down shirts worn under pastel cardigans, oversized trench coats and shearling jackets. Hermès horse-jumping-inspired show featured supple leather ensembles in buttery shades, while Gabriela Hearst’s foray into leather came in the form of a caramel-coloured puff-sleeve leather dress.

Fringing

Fringing appeared in generous measures on the catwalks at all four fashion weeks but was particularly prevalent in Milan, where pleats were chopped up into fringe at Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo coated black dresses with golden trimmings, while Boss and Jil Sander sent iterations of silk-fringed evening dresses down their respective runways. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee – arguably the most celebrated designer in the industry today – unveiled myriad shredded designs, with dresses finished with acidic lime green tassels and an updated take on the brand’s coveted woven pouch bag featuring exaggerated fringe.

Capes

The outerwear option du jour, billowing capes were ubiquitous across the four cities, with generously-cut shapes bringing a sense of sartorial drama to the catwalks. Michael Kors championed blanket dressing with an abundance of cashgora cape coats served up in cosy fabrics and warming winter colour palettes, while at JW Anderson knitted capes and layers of tinsel-trimming belled out from the shoulders of dresses.

Checks

The collective infatuation among designers for checks was unfading this season, manifesting itself in abundant iterations of tartan, gingham and heritage checks. In New York, Claudia Li’s translucent vinyl pleated-midi and blazer combination came in punchy pink gingham, while Monse dipped into mismatched tartan with skirts secured by safety pins and worn with punkish lace-up boots. Across the Atlantic at London Fashion Week, Burberry returned to its roots with remixed heritage checks in innovative cuts, and Shrimps gave the print a regal touch in a potent orange, pink and green colourway.

Chocolate Brown

Brown is the new black – at least according to the AW20 runways. Chocolatey shades are solidifying their place in the sartorial stratosphere, firmly entrenching their place in the palette of neutrals that have dominated the catwalks and streets for the past few seasons. Chocolate-coloured outerwear seems to be emerging as an autumn/winter wardrobe essential, tackled with aplomb at Victoria Beckham and Emilia Wickstead, while A.W.A.K.E Mode offered a quilted velvet version with an exaggerated collar. At Jil Sander, a bell-sleeved leather shirt with matching pants was rendered head-to-toe in the shade, while Christopher Kane swathed a pleated bra-dress from the chest down in the sweet hue.

Equestrian Trappings

An affluent array of designers paid homage to equestrian style and turning out bourgeois tailoring this season, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show for Hermès plunging into the brand’s heritage for a show centred entirely around the sport. Elsewhere, Hedi Slimane continued his three-season-running ode to the ‘70s bourgeois French girl at Celine, in the form of equestrian-style knee-high boots, horse-bit belts and gold-chain accessories, this time injected with a bohemian edge, meanwhile Shrimps’ regal-inspired show was populated with tartan Victorian jackets worn with riding pants and silk foulards.

Gothic Glam

A certain darkness hung over the collections at Valentino – where floods of black replaced last season’s explosions of colour – and Anna Sui – whose horror film-inspired collection gave way to burnout velvet and vampire-esque leather – as if to reflect the sombre shadow over fashion week of the Coronavirus crisis and the ongoing conversation around fashion’s negative impact on the environment. Showgoers at Paco Rabanne witnessed a procession of decadent embellishment, ornate tapestry dresses and a play on dress as armour in the form of chain-mail dresses in a collection that explored medieval dress codes. At Rodarte, gothic glam met romanticism in eerily beautiful silhouettes that married dark energy with delicate details from puff sleeves and tiered ruffles to floral-print silks and embroidery.

Iridescence

The runways were equally awash iridescence and sparkling ensembles to lift the winter mood and see us through the party season. Rejina Pyo gave high-sheen glamour an office-attire twist, pairing a pearly puff-shouldered blouse with a sleek wool midi-skirt and knee-high boots. Others presented an inundation of red carpet-appropriate attire and party-ready bedazzled ball gowns – Julien Dossena reinterpreted Paco Rabanne’s signature chain-mail silhouette with a thread of fantastical glamour; Erdem injected a dose of 1920s glam into a silver dress decorated with tiered embroidery; and Halpern wrapped models in shimmering metallics with statement sleeves.

Words by Ruby McAuliffe

Graphics by Katie Janes

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