“You live in the dark, boy, I cannot pretend, I’m not fazed, only here to sin”

MSCHF v Lil Nas X released ‘Satan Shoes’ on 29^th March 2021: a drop of 666 (note the satanical reference here) pairs of adapted Nike Air Max 97s, featuring a bronze pentagram charm, an inverted cross, a reference to the Bible Passage Luke 10:18, and 60 cubic centimetres of red ink and 1 drop of human blood in the mid sole. Priced at $1,018, the shoes were released alongside Lil Nas X’s music video for ‘Montreal (Call me by your name)’ and sold out in under a minute. The conversation is unfolding, the controversy is growing, and the conspiracies are being created. But, most importantly? Lil Nas X’s art is being spoken about. 

^{Photo Credit: MSCHF}

With their embedded references to the religious construct of ‘Satan’ and ‘Hell’, it’s evident why ‘Satan Shoes’ have sparked a turmoil. The collab has projected fashion into a new territory, a conversation on the correlation between religion and homosexuality, an otherwise untouched topic in contemporary culture and society. This new relationship, however, Lil Nas X’s using of fashion to provoke an analytical look into such intersectionality, has generated a question on collab culture, and the space for boundary-pushing fashion in our contemporary world: have MSCHF v Lil Nas X gone too far, or are they pushing fashion in the direction it must go, viewing fashion as art, creating fashion with impact, using fashion to try and make a change?

Given that America is predominantly Christian (65% of American adults representing Christianity in 2019), the uproar was predictable. Avid tweeters have been quick to criticise Lil Nas X for encouraging the descent into hell, misleading ‘impressionable’ youth onto the wrong track, whilst videos have surfaced showing church sermons teaching the dangers of the ‘Satan Shoe’, explaining its sinfulness and the wrongdoing of Lil Nas X. Yet the irony here is rich: our society has the tendency to overlook atrocities such as homophobia, poverty, inequality, homophobia, police brutality, mass shootings yet is provoked by a shoe design and music video. This speaks volumes and, crucially, tells us exactly why Lil Nas X is doing what needs to be done. 

Beyond the fundamental religious controversiality of referencing ‘Hell’ and ‘Satan’, the MSCHF v Lil Nas X collaboration speaks to the truth of being a young, Black, Homosexual man in today’s America. As Lil Nas X himself has since said in a TikTok: ‘yall love telling gay people we going to hell, then get mad when I decide to go!?’. ‘Satan Shoes’ are not simply a two-dimensional, fleeting provocation for fame, they hold a symbolism which expresses the reverberations of his experience of growing up homosexual, the reality of being told you face a life in ‘Hell’ for falling outside of heteronormativity. In a self-addressed letter to his 14-year-old self – ‘dear 14 year old Montero – Lil Nas X explores this: ‘I know we promised never to be “that” type of gay person’ he writes, ‘I know we promised to die with the secret’ … ‘but this will open doors for many other queer people to simply exist’. His hurt is clear, the imposed judgement from society that he has grown with is evident, and thus the power behind his current presence is unignorable. Self-admittedly ‘pushing an agenda’, Lil Nas X is acting with purpose, his ‘Satan Shoes’ are a protest, not a publicity thrill.

This is not to say that Lil Nas X is not benefitting from the subsequent controversy; it has created a storm which was predictable and undeniably planned. However, it is to say that the ongoing conversation regarding the cultural and religious connotations of being homosexual is one of many which needs to happen. Lil Nas X is working with symbolism, not controversy; he is retelling a narrative which has already been told, reclaiming the identity which has already been forced, he is dancing in the metaphorical shadows of punishment. The problem people have with this collaboration, it seems, is not the association but the disassociation: it is not Lil Nas X’s intertwining with ‘Hell’ and ‘Satan’, it is his interaction with a construct which has been used for centuries to oppress and marginalize people; interestingly, this makes us uncomfortable. 

Is the shoe the problem, or is it our culture? 

On 1^st April, 2021, Nike filed a lawsuit (under trademark infringement) to stop MSCHF reproducing or selling any further ‘Satan Shoes’, under the grounds that they did not approve nor authorize the use of their brand and logo in the collaboration. Understandably, they are removing their brand away from the rising controversy, protecting their name and reputation. Yet the repercussions of this lawsuit, the constricts it may pose on future creators and collaborators, poses an important question on the nature of fashion and its interactions with reality. How much is it an independent expression of art, a platform for free creation and empowerment, and how much is it a place of limited consumerism, a static, image driven environment?

As Lil Nas X sings, ‘Call me when you want, Call me when you need, Call me in the morning, I’ll be on the way’, it is clear that the conversation is ongoing, and has only just begun. Although unavailable to buy, the storm created by Lil Nas X and his ‘Satan Shoe’ is more important than we are may at first understand. It is not the blood; it is not the symbols; it is not the references; it is the real, life-changing implications on those who identify within the cross-sections of intersectionality and representation. Hopefully, this conversation won’t stop. 

Words By Hannah Emery

The post MSCHF v Lil Nas X ‘Satan Shoes’: What You Need To Understand About The Controversy appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Over the last three days, we have watched the fashion industry come together, adapt and

transform London Fashion Week Men’s into a digital event in response to the Coronavirus

outbreak.

It may not have been the same experience of running in between shows, meetings and

events, but we were not left disappointed. We’ve watched discussions, podcasts, virtual

exhibitions and virtual catwalks all from the industry’s leading fashion voices.

It’s been a hectic three days, so if you missed anything from the weekend festivities, we’ve

rounded up our top moments from LFW.

Friday 12th June

To begin, let’s take a moment to catch up on how Friday’s events came to an end.

Liam Hodges presents Miss Jason & Hasani B2B in support of LGBTQIA + POC

After a full day of discussions, catwalks and exhibitions, the first day of LFW came to an

exciting end with a DJ set from Miss Jason & Hasani B2B to raise awareness for LGBTQIA+

POC in the UK. You can donate here.

Not only was the final event raising awareness for an incredible organisation but got us

feeling for the weekend and very excited for the rest of Fashion Week to continue.

Video of Liam Hodges presents Miss Jason & Hasani B2B in support of LGBTQIA + POC

Saturday 13th June

KA WA KEY

KA WA KEY showcased a mixture of SS21 and archived pieces for the second day of LFW.

The collection was showcased using only a green screen, a London home and a very creative

mind, all produced during the COVID-19 lockdown.

The video, named “There’s no place like home”, was inspired by nursery rhymes and fairytale characters. We couldn’t tell if it was real life, or we were hallucinating.

Check out our favourite pieces from their AW2020 collection below:

XANDER ZHOU AW20

Chinese fashion designer, Xander Zhou (and the first-ever menswear Chinese designer to be

included in LFW Men’s) walked us through his latest AW20 collection in a very futuristic,

digitally voice-over ‘critical update’ video.

Each showcase was very unique from the next, transitioning from monochrome buttoned

shirts to colourful pixel puffa jackets. He really took ‘fashion-forward’ to a whole new level

with this collection.

Take a look at some of the best looks below.

XU ZHI PRELUDE

Fashion designer Zu Zhi debuted his latest AW20 collection in a virtual catwalk film. The designer really pushed the boundaries of a typical catwalk, in true corona style, with seamless transitions between an underground tube station to a luxury city apartment, which really captured the inspo behind his latest collection. Elegant fashion that can be worn from day to night. Tassels, faux fur patching and distressed fabrics took centre stage to this latest collection, all the while keeping his signature tailored look.

Video of XU ZHI PRELUDE

NABIL NAYAL/ Chapter X: The Archives in Blue

In a 4-minute short film, Syrian-born British fashion designer Nabil Nayal, presents his tenth

collection and takes a look back at his ‘hero pieces.’ To sum up this latest collection, there is only one word to use. Blue. “During the Reformation, blue was highly regarded as a moral shade, separate from the true colours of red, green yellow and purple, which were deemed extravagant and grotesque. Blue allows me to see the archives in a new light, without detracting from the essence of the garments,” says Nayal.

Check out our favourite pieces below.

15 Year of TONI&GUY hair on London Fashion Week

One of our favourite moments from the weekend was a trip back to look at all the best TONI

and GUY hairstyles on the LFW catwalk over the last 15 years. We got a look behind the scenes at how hairstyling has evolved over the last decade and a half, through showcasing many designers including the likes of Giles, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Betty Jackson and Paul Costelloe.

Take a look for yourself.

Video of 15 Year of TONI&GUY hair on London Fashion Week

OSMAN YOUSEFZADA’s film ‘Her Dreams are Bigger’

Osman Yousefzada shared a very enlightening short film to highlight the issues of fast

fashion and to give a voice to fashion factory workers in Bangladesh.In the film, workers are asked to give their impression on the kind of women who buy the clothes they make which really highlights the inequality the fast-fashion chain. Some of the impressions included; “They look beautiful,” “they eat different kinds of food,” “they’re not black like me,” “their lips are like dolls.” It’s an eye-opening document that shows the lives of those behind the clothes. It’s a story everyone should see.

Video of OSMAN YOUSEFZADA’s film ‘Her Dreams are Bigger’

Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Presents SOLASTA.

To round down Saturday we listened into a live-streamed fundraising event for UK Black

Pride. We don’t want to give too much away, but to celebrate his AW2020 collection, Charles Jeffery took us to the basement where his fashion house LOVERBOY was founded to hear from musicians, dancers, spoken word artists and designers. All to raise cash for Black Pride. Needless to say, we were left feeling very inspired. Donate to UK Black Pride

Watch the event here:

Video of Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY Presents SOLASTA.

Sunday 14th June

RIXO ‘Flora’ Resort 2021 Collection

For Rixo’s digital LFW presentation, they released a short video teasing us with their resort

2021 Flora collection. The look book was shot in Rixo’s co-founder Henrietta’s family home

garden surrounded by trees and flowers to show off the collection.The collection features a load of florals, ditsy prints, daisy embroidered knitwear, floaty summer dresses and watercolour roses. Really living up to its name. The collections not available to buy online yet, but check out the teaser video

Video of RIXO ‘Flora’ Resort 2021 Collection

Stephen Jones Millinery ‘Analogue Fairydust’

Stephen Jones Millinery treated us to a preview of his Spring-Summer 2021 collection,

named ‘Analogue Fairydust in collaboration with Noonoouri. The short clip gave us an insight into what’s to come from the upcoming collection, featuring everything from a fantasia star covered mask, to a dark grey wave crown to a floating silver embellished top hat. All modelled on a VR doll. We couldn’t tell what was real, and what wasn’t!

Watch the full video here:

Video of Stephen Jones Millinery ‘Analogue Fairydust’

LFW Designer Diary: Roksanda

It was short but very sweet. An inside look into the colourful, elegant world of Roksanda. In

a ‘Designer Diary’ she showcased her inspiration during the lockdown and the efforts put into

making her latest collection. In her AW2020 line, she experimented with everything from camo print, to burgundy leather to chunky knitwear. There’s no running theme which each look different to the next, but we are obsessed.

Natasha Zinko x DUOltd SS21 Collection

“A nostalgic celebration of Land of the Free that is a stark contrast to the painful and

harrowing imagery that has emerged from the US in recent weeks.” Her latest collection is described as ‘optimistic’ and ‘youthful’ as it’s filled with references of peace signs, hippie flares, heart prints, smiling faces and a lot of cowboys. The collection is to embody what the American Dream is supposed to embody, drawing attention to the recent violence and protests.

View our favourite looks below

LN-CC Presents the ‘Late Night- Conscious campaign’

The ‘Late Night- Conscious Campaign’ supports luxury brands to help produce sustainable

clothing and to raise awareness of issues that face the fashion industry to help bring about

social change. Instead of presenting her Spring/Summer 2021 collection on the catwalk, British-born designer Martine Rose released a capsule collection in a performance piece narrated by

activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal

View the campaign video below:

Video of LN-CC Presents the ‘Late Night- Conscious campaign’

John Lewis & Partners presents the LFW

For the first time in history, the public got to walk the John Lewis & Partners catwalk to raise

money for The British Fashion Council. In true lockdown fashion. Hundreds took part in the showing off their own John Lewis summer looks, making it a ‘fashion moment to remember!’ We loved everything about it. What a way to end the weekend.

Watch the inspiring video for yourself

Video of John Lewis & Partners presents the LFW

Words by Clare Stephenson

Graphics by Georgia Walters

The post Our Weekend Highlights from Digital London Fashion Week appeared first on Voir Fashion.