With its complexity, setting, and choreography, it was much more than a regular show – it was a performance. After Lucky Love’s emotional “Now I Don’t Need Your Love” and a stunning short film setting the tone, we had a chance to marvel at over 40 outfits, with their corsets, eye masks, patchwork, bandage-like tights, and layers of transparent, patterned tulle, organza, and chiffon. Add some oversized trenches, tweed flat caps, and black knee socks to get into the avant-garde Parisian mood. The run-down bar setting arranged for the show, with its worn wooden floor, old-school chairs, winking yellow lightbulbs, vintage mirrors, and empty wine bottles had a magnetising vibe of an antebellum bistro somewhere in the artistic district of Montmartre. 

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The highlights of the collection include long, oversized trousers, suits, and woollen trenches with lines of thread visible – as if the amendments process was still in progress. Other recurring motifs were body curves underlining long skirts and elegant female coats with puffed sleeves, covered with thin, loops-containing Lycra. The iconic tobi-toe shoes were also there! The most impressive outfits were undoubtedly the transparent, ankle-length tulle dresses, which brought female corporeality with all their curvy lines, artificial wasp waists, and pubic hair to the front. No taboos are to be found there! The collection ended in four white-blue striped dresses, the last of which was presented by the classy Gwendoline Christie. The outfits, together with long gloves, curly wigs, and blue eyelids created the effect of an American doll from the 1950s. 

One of our absolute favourites was a long, purple-pink-yellow tulle dress, accompanied by a tulle-wrapped white hat. The outfit left an uncanny feeling, as the model’s face looked like the one of a button-eyed doll from Tim Burton’s Coraline, and the tulle seemed to cover the whole body, looking like the skin of an alien. Indeed, the great idea behind this and many other looks was for the models to resemble dolls. From the corsets worn by both men and women to the porcelain-like necks, inhuman, unearthly-looking faces, bandaged legs and throats, the shaky-walking models seemed like actual porcelain dolls brought to life. As they passed unstably, looking deep into the spectators’ eyes, often nervously covering themselves 

to produce a shy, emotional effect, they were much more than mere models. They were actors, who played in the great show embracing human sensuality, emotionality, and corporeality. 

The doll effect was mostly reached thanks to the breathtaking makeup done by the fabulous Dame Pat McGrath. The porcelain-like, perfectly smooth faces, the glittering lips, and the intense colourful eyes were just marvellous, with the fluffy, aerodynamic, hat-like hairdos by Duffy completing the looks. 

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With the audience cheering and shouting “Bravo!” repeatedly right after the show, it seems that John Galliano once again proved that he and the Maison Margiela fashion house truly deserve their position at the top! 

Words By  by Julia Sułkowska 

The post Galliano’s Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal Show is a night to be included in fashion history books! Mesmerising, sensual, avant-garde appeared first on Voir Fashion.

‘How I Like It’ featuring Lethal Bizzle, JME, Baseman and Chipmunk.

With a CV, that boasts such feature films as Tomorrow Never Dies, Sherlock Holmes, Maleficent and World war Z, Saloum had a vision that screamed luxury. He wanted to transform the look of British Grime to high fashion, and he knew that Jyoti was the up-and-coming stylist who would help him achieve his dream.

Saloum and Jyoti had landed on the same page, and knew the exact look they were after.

Collaborating with Slaters with ample choice of suits, bowties, sashes and pocket squares for use in the video, it was down to few personal touches from Jyoti to deliver the final money shot. The Rat Pack image had been created. Grime had gone high fashion.

The video has already become a tremendous success for Saloum, D Double E and Voir Fashion, resulting in new connections and increased credibility.

Or in Saloum’s own words:

“The video that we did together, for D Double E, I always knew that with the right tools, and with the right people, my vision would come across. Hence for me it’s a no brainer; I’m ready to embrace the music video world and put my stamp on it.”

Photography by Rich Hendry

Click the image below to see the Saloum N’Jie interview for Voir Fashion Magazine Issue 18

The post Bringing High Fashion to Grime appeared first on Voir Fashion.