Icy winds; crashing waves; perilous terrains: Saint Laurent’s Icelandic setting screams ‘winter’. Fundamentally, Anthony Vaccarello likens the collection to ‘the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn’t belong’. Yet the juxtaposition between the wintry backdrop and isolated models speaks to more. Having taken inspiration from his setting, Vaccarello seems to reference our human disposition in the world, the fragile contingency between our power and the power of nature, that despite our boldness, we will always be unmatched by our natural wonders. By pairing such a vast, natural backdrop with their rock-chick, fierce 2021 collection, YSL truly highlight the daring precision woven into their ‘atelier’ and ‘savoir faire’ roots.

Inspired partially by Peaches’ 90s wardrobe and partially by the 60s Parisian parties, the collection is a fascinating merge between minimalist short cuts, and maximalist indulgent accessorising. In the words of Vaccarello: we see ‘the shapes of the ‘60s with the colours of the ‘80s.’ Orienting around contemporary tailoring, we see barely-there silhouettes, short, hemmed skirts layered beneath equal length blazars. There is a thrilling lack of predictability in each look, as we are given low, sweeping necklines coupled with blunt cuffed sleeves and sharp, metal-tipped pointed shoes. The combined effect is a daring, yet effortless, recklessness. A raw mix of texture and colour, a contrast between extravagance and simplicity.

And texture and colour certainly have been ignored, they hold the starring roles in the campaign. Electric blue; rich gold; metallic silver; hot pink; lime green; turquoise; an endless list of colours. An abundance of faux fur; chandelier earrings dripping in diamantes; tweed boucle; the return of the four-leaf clover. Saint Laurent’s winter collection has channelled a rich vibrancy.

Returning to his motive, the idea of a girl where she doesn’t belong, Vaccarello welcomes an uncharacteristic winter wardrobe. Despite the bitter coldness, the relentless biting Icelandic winter, fashion and expression must go on. In true YSL fashion, luxury and abstract have been blended, simplicity and boldness sit together, and – for us – we must fight against the odds of belonging, both metaphorically and aesthetically

Words By Hannah Emery

The post Braving The Cold: Saint Laurent’s Fall 2021 Ready To Wear Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Lockdown has inspired many of us to pause our usual pace and reflect on the present moment, the things we miss, and what we want to see from a post-pandemic society. With restrictions now starting to lift, the reality we’ve spent over a year longing for now seems within touching distance.

Helmut Lang’s AW21 Collection “reflects a cautiously optimistic attitude” and examines the potential realities of a post-pandemic society. Interweaving the brand’s signature minimalistic silhouette styling with weatherproof garments and fabrics, the collection aims to prepare for the uncertainties of the near future by creating pieces that are both multi-functional and multi-seasonal.

Starting with a visual reference board of ski attire, hi-tech materials, and sci-fi aesthetics, the brand has produced a collection that revolves around silver surfaces – matte and reflective – and durable textiles. Functional materials such as double neoprene and astro foil are packed together to create padded or quilted garments that tap into the brand’s new futuristic vision. 

Both the Men’s and Women’s collections uphold this aesthetic, showcasing the likes of matte puffer vests with contrasting silver accents, nylon tracksuits, patchwork fleecing, zippered neoprene leggings, and sporty silhouettes decked out in military waffle. Functionality also takes pride of place; detachable sleeves, buckles, and belts are highlighted to show the multiple ways to wear a specific item.

While looking to the future is arguably the number one priority for many fashion labels, Helmut Lang continue to uphold the staples that gave it its seat at the forefront of the fashion industry. So, don’t be surprised to see the 90’s-inspired, minimalist finishes that detail the collection’s visual landscape.

“True to the brand’s heritage, timeless silhouettes are reconstructed using innovative materials and mixing signature Helmut Lang details such as straps, layered fabrics, and patchwork.”

– Helmut Lang

The collection is paired with Helmut Lang Standards, a line of garments that reimagine wardrobe staples using fabrics synonymous with the brand: denim, leather, and jersey. A contemporary twist is achieved by the use of deconstructed basics such as cutouts, detachable sleeves, padding, and strapping details.

Statement looks from the Women’s collection include silver miniskirts, long sleeves, and draped dresses. A standout look is a smooth rider suit reimagined as casualwear, made up of a cropped, double-breasted blazer and micro-mini wrap skirt. The outfit is a new take on the co-ord suit that combines Helmut Lang’s sharp tailoring with an edgy youthfulness. Utilitarian fixtures such as the skirt’s elastic tie and buckle closure also highlight the brand’s preference for functional detailing.

Men’s highlights consist of casual tracksuit pieces in grey, orange, khaki, and russet – a nod to the seasonal colour palette – as well as denim co-ords and puffed gilets. A shiny lambskin over-shirt jacket stands out for its resemblance to a biker jacket. Combined with zipper detailing, a white shirt, and Helmut Lang’s classic denim jeans, the outfit channels all of the timeless characteristics men’s fashion while staying true to the brand’s minimalist design aesthetic.

Bridging the gap between the ideals of the past and the excitement of the future, the Helmut Lang FW21 Collection truly cements the brand’s status as a pioneer of contemporary fashion. Using its winning combination of streetwear and high fashion, classic denim and Astro foil, pretty silhouettes, and functional detailing, Helmut Lang proves that their creative direction continues to offer a fresh perspective on the fashion landscape.

Words By Charlie Colville

The post “Cautious Optimism” Defines Helmut Lang’s AW21 Collection appeared first on Voir Fashion.

Olivier Rousteing read our minds and transported this feeling to the runway with Balmain’s Fall 2021 collection which debuted on Monday during Paris Fashion Week. The French creative director presented the aviation-inspired collection ‘Above and Beyond’ In the most unusual of places, at the airplane hangar of Air France with models stepping in and out of a plane and walking over its wings.

“The men’s and women’s collections channel the impressive power of travel to open minds, uplift spirits and reunite those who have been kept apart, as we all look forward to soon-to-arrive better days,”

Balmain’s autumnal debut sent us flying, or at least prepared us by when we will be able to. Its pieces were a further demonstration of the brands consistency with statement looks and love for structure but also a representation of functionality with looks that could easily become travel-essentials seen on our favourite celebrities and even us.

Oversized trenches, versatile utility jackets, baggy sweats and flatform shoes were a few of our favourite pieces, all practical but in true Balmain style with metallic embellishments and eye-catching colours – with a sense of style that encompass the feeling that Olivier Rousteing wanted to transmit; “to channel that amazing sensation of freedom.” that we all miss.

We may be on hold at the moment but this collection via its unique presentation and strong clothing pieces helps us dream for a bit, and plan our future travel wardrobe with military inspired looks reminding us of the 80s and electric accessories.

Words By Chiara Ferrari

The post Remember Airports? Balmain’s AW21 Show Gives Us Aviation-Inspired Chic appeared first on Voir Fashion.