The designers catching our eye at this year’s fashion week are Aeron Studio and (di)vision, as they have brought the highlights of the week so far and visionary looks.

Aeron Studio

Aeron Studio known for their contemporary knitwear, showcased in an empty warehouse as beautifully eerie music echoed through the space. A diverse cast of models were used in their show which we were hyped to see, as body inclusion and model diversity should not be treated as a trend.

We were impressed with the set of looks which spiralled out of the Aeron Studio collection on Tuesday. Their key takes on AW23 fashion included high necklines, oversized leather handbags and loose, slouchy fits. No surprise that the bulk of their collection was made up of their infamous knitwear styles, which not only is perfect for a Nordic AW but also one here in the UK. Leather appeared in the form of shirts, blazers and trousers which were styled together to create contemporary ensembles.

Neutral colours dominated their runway and conventional seasonal shades such as brown and auburn were prevalent. However, a bright tangerine fit made its way down the runway and was definitely one of the eye-catchers of the collection. Most looks featured multiple layers and were kept to a strict monochromatic palette, with the exception of a few patterned pieces popping up.

_{Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week}

(di)vision

We know we can all relate to the next-day mess of a late rager being a dreaded thought. However, in (di)vision’s punk party show that is exactly what we got, and for some reason we were living for the atmosphere- maybe because we didn’t have to clean it up? The youthful brand set up their show in what can only be described as a party carcass. Guests were seated at wine-stained clothed tables where banquets of food were already half-eaten. Candles were almost burnt down to their wick ends and a sense of chaotic charm lingered in the air.

_{Photo Credits: Andrea Adraini}

Imperfections and irregularities are fully celebrated in this collection which is an amazing breath of fresh air. The deadstock materials which made up the series of 32 looks meant the designer siblings behind the visions could not be perfectionists as odd quantities of stock were at their disposal. An incredible mirage of inexact creations is therefore the result of sustainable design tactics.

Key factors of their neo-grunge AW23 collection were low-waist lines, distressed patchwork denims and leather biker styles. Decade influences from the nineties and noughties were very evident- return of leg and arm warmers, accessorizing with belts and hoodies. Their signature grunge took a gorpcore twist with all looks (mostly slouchy fits) being styled with sneakers. The subculture’s favourite, plaid, prevailed in certain looks while hats-aviator, cap, beanie- and hoods made a strong appearance. Zips and rips took hold of trousers, skirts and jackets which works for the season as well as the brand. A dash of mustard stood out on the runway and the occasional sheer piece caught our eyes.

_{Video Credits: Freja Wewer}

No wonder everyone is talking about this stunt. The destructive show closer was a captivating moment of genius from the brand. As the last model to walk the runway, Sarah Dahl, -also the partner of Simon Wick- sat at one of the many table wrecks she grabbed the attention of the room by tapping her spoon against her glass. Standing up, in traditional toasting manner, she waited until all eyes were fixed on her. In a dramatic fashion she strutted fiercely away from the table and it became clear the table cloth which covered her table, was in fact, her dress’ train. As food, drink and cutlery chaotically leapt on to the floor, spectators applauded in admiration.

A Roege Hove

A. Roege Hove is known for its extravagant yet effortless silhouettes as they seek to highlight the craftmanship and artistic process of clothes making in their designs. The AW23 show, however, took this one step further as the first model took to the runway without her outfit. We then had the pleasure of witnessing the delicate craftmanship that lies behind each look as we saw the designer’s trademark gauze knitwear take form in front of our eyes.

The collection featured the usual sheer looks that we associate with the designer, but this collection debuted her first works with wool. The chunkier knits offered a whole new texture to the collection, something that proved to be a key element within this show. The heavier knits were seen alongside feathers, ribbed details and open knits to create a multidimensional collection that strayed away from her usual looks whilst staying true to the theme of the brand.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Stine Goya

If there is one designer that you should keep your eye on it is Stine Goya. The women-led brand has been going from strength to strength as of late and their latest collection “Freeze” was a wintery dream. Inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s Snow Queen, the collection looked to celebrate the winter season. While a winter-inspired show might bring images of practical puffer jackets and ski-suits to mind, Stine Goya took these looks and added a fairy-tale twist.

A sea of silvers and blues took to the catwalk, channelling the colours that we associate most with the season. The icy tones were paired with furry accessories such as hats, coats and boots creating a Narnia-esque depiction of a magical winter. If this collection achieved one thing, it firmly solidified the trend of silver and metallics that are set to take over from the Valentino PP Pink domination.

While some of the looks channelled the regal aspects of the Snow Queen, the collection as a whole felt very inspired by ski culture. The fur miniskirts and leg warmers, metallic trousers and sheer dresses felt like the perfect for a ‘cool-girl takes Aprés ski’ look. The combination of ski-culture and the Hans Christian Andersen fairy-tale came together to create the perfect depiction of a snowy winter.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Rotate

This Copenhagen Fashion Week Rotate provided us with every party look we could ever need. The black vinyl catwalk was quickly brought to life by an array of sequins and sparkles and even a special appearance from the former Real Housewife Lisa Rinna.

Rotate is a brand that celebrates the outrageously extravagant and while this collection offered a more muted colour palette than usual, it was no exception. Apart from the occasional fuchsia, the colour palette leaned more on the neutral side, but in the form of leopard print and sparkles in order to stay true to the brand’s love of the over-the-top. However, the biggest surprise came at the end of the show where the final six looks were all black and completely monochromatic. This is not to say that the looks were without the usual Rotate extravagance though, the brand simply utilised textures and silhouettes to make up for the lack of colour.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Gestuz

Gestuz’ autumn/winter 2023 show was built around an unexpected muse. The ‘Black Widow’ was central to the collection as creative director Sanne Sehestedt explored the notions of masculinity and femininity through the sultry designs. The push and pull of the traditional gender norms of fashion worked towards the re-imagined notion of sexiness that Gestuz was exploring. The pairing of traditionally female aspects of fashion such as lace and sparkles with the structure of a blazer or dark leather worked against the usual assumptions tied to ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’ dress codes.

The binary oppositions did not stop there. The colour palette of the collection was predominantly dark, as one would expect from the ‘Black Widow’ theme, but it was not without a vibrant pop of colour. Denim was a predominant theme in the collection, alongside cream, yellow and brown, adding some lighter tones to contrast the dark. There was even a vibrant red dress in a look that felt absent of all darkness.

Overall, the collection appeared to celebrate femininity in all its forms, whether it be light or dark, ‘masculine’ or ‘feminine’, the show featured it all. The autumn/winter collection was an appreciation of binaries and the spaces that can exist in-between them.

Photo Credits: Copenhagen Fashion Week

^{Words By Erin Wilson and Amelia Gregory}

_{^{Header Image: @Gestuz}}

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13^th-17^th of Jan 

The best of luxury Italian fashion’s AW 23 men’s collections will be showcasing as of tomorrow. Returning fashion giants Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Prada, will reveal their latest designs and we are hyped. From the 13^th through to the 17^th of January the streets of Milan will be crawling with fashionistas, models and designers. The city will be transformed as the beginning of the fashion calendar kicks off. Let’s go! 

What will be happening? Milan Men’s Fashion Week this year is going to be one to remember as a lot of changes within creative teams have happened since the most previous SS 23 shows. For example, this will be a monumental show for Gucci as this is their first time showcasing a collection since creative director, Alessandro Michele, stepped down. This leaves exciting opportunities for the brand to reinvent their ways, as Marco Bizzarri will be running the show, quite literally. Milan will also host to Andrea Guerra as the CEO of Prada for the first time. Miuccia Prada and husband Patrizio Bertelli stepped down as the co-CEO’s late last year which was marked as an end of an era for the fashion house. So, it is a fair assumption to say this year’s Milan Men’s is definitely going to an iconic fashion week for more than one reason.   

Fashion houses which have us on our toes for their upcoming debuts during Milan Fashion Week are Etro and Giorgio Armani. Marco De Vincenzo will be showing his first menswear with Etro and expectations are high. The direction for his AW 23 is unpredictable and that means anticipation is building everywhere. Giorgio Armani will be showcasing their ideas for AW 23 menswear during their shows on Monday the 16^th of January. A brand with a rich heritage, they are no stranger to Milan Fashion Week, however always manage to make a statement with their shows. We expect this year will be no different and are excited to see their creative vision on the future of fashion.  

Keep up-to-date as the new trends are unveiled for AW 23.  

Copenhagen is Calling, and we are Picking Up on the First Ring 

31^st of Jan- 3^rd of Feb 

Scandanavian styles have been trending for years and they have graciously earned their way into the limelight, which we are buzzed about. At the end of this month your socials will be dominated with Scandi fits which will be strutting down the runways of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW). We are super excited to see the emerging Danish designers showcase their work as well as well-known Scandi brands such as Ganni. 29 shows will showcase the best Denmark fashion has to offer, along with featured talks and events. So, be sure to save the dates, as you will not want to miss the trends coming our way on the 31^st of January to the 3^rd of February.  

This is the first season which has set sustainability standards which brands participating in the week must meet. A minimum of 18 requirements must be met by the brands who are showcasing. This means CPHFW is putting sustainability at the heart of their shows this year. This is a huge step in the fashion industry as CPHFW are leading the way for positive global change regarding the future of fashion weeks. Requirements include brands producing a zero-waste status from show production and there must be no use of single-use packaging. People are equally as important in brand sustainability as the planet, which is why brands must have good working conditions and fair pay throughout their supply chains, as well as a diverse and equal hiring system.  

So, the question remains, who are these brands who are going above and beyond with their sustainability measures? Or most importantly, who are we most buzzed for? 

(di)vision 

“Create from what already is”- a sustainable mantra for a sustainable brand. This young brand, and we mean young, was developed only back in 2018 by siblings Nanna and Simon Wick. Despite their short brand lifetime, they are seriously killing it and are returning again this year to showcase their AW 23 designs at CPHFW. Forward thinking and genderless, this is a brand we are looking forward to seeing at CPHFW as well as future events. 

Ganni 

No surprise that we are hella hyped for Ganni to show off what they have been working on. The label which we love for their cool designs and diversity will have their returning spot on the final day of the fashion packed week. Not only will they be on the final day, they are the closing show which will wrap up the whole ensemble of runways… no pressure there! We have faith…after all, it’s Ganni we are talking about.  

A.Roege Hove 

The conceptual knitwear brand which describes itself as ‘effortless and extravagant’, a concept which may seem contradictory, or contrasting at the least. This brand is right up our street and the collection they will be showing for AW 23 at CPHFW is unpredictable. As an experimental and visionary brand, A.Roege Hove, will surely give us a lot to think about post-show. Excited to see their take on the fashion for the upcoming season.  

There is no hiding our excitement for the next few weeks. A jampacked January of trends and a fashion filled February is ahead of us, and it all kicks off tomorrow!

_{Words By Erin Wilson}

_{Header Image: @cphfw Instagram}

The post Fashion Weeks Incoming: Get to Grips with Men’s Milan and Copenhagen’s FWs appeared first on Voir Fashion.

A. Roege Hove

A. Roege Hove is a new talent brand to keep an eye on. The conceptual knitwear brand challenges traditions with a modern artistic approach to effortless yet extravagant silhouettes. Founded by Amalie Røge Hove in 2019, the designer has a master’s in textile design and years of experience as a knitwear designer for Danish brands. The unique designs are experimental with techniques, challenging our perception of traditional knitwear.

Set in a grand high white-walled building, the collection was edgy and daring (not what you would expect from knitwear) with sheer exposing fabrics, raw edges and cropped styles – very y2k.

(di)vision

(di)vision is a multi-disciplinary brand for sustainable fashion design and production, only using high-quality deadstock fabrics discarded from exclusive designers and existing materials. Founded by siblings Nanna & Simon Wick, the unisex collections take inspiration from multifunctional DIY aesthetics.

With the show set in woodland, the collection had a laid-back grunge theme with patchwork mini dresses, oversized leather-look bomber jackets, mini tank tops and hippy shirts that looked effortlessly cool and wearable.

Latimmier

Latimmier is a new ready-to-wear label by rising Finnish fashion talent Ervin Latimer. The collections are designed for those who want to express and challenge the expectations of masculinity with their clothing.

The show featured an array of oversized shirts and jackets, pinstripes, straight-lined tailored silhouettes and baggy trousers to produce a modern twist on the grunge look.

Gestuz

Founded in 2008 by Sanne Sehested, Gestuz creates designs inspired by vintage looks and modern rock and roll women, aiming to emphasise the strength of females. The collection had a fresh energetic feel with the vibrant colour palette showcasing oversized jackets, sleek midi dresses and micro skirts – another collection which screamed y2k.

The Garment

The Garment has a seasonless and minimalistic approach to create timeless quality garments and was founded in 2020 by Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen. The collection is classic, simplistic and chic, featuring traditional tailored silhouettes, sophisticated waistcoats, blouses, blazers and trousers as well as mini skirts and flowy longline dresses in a neutral palette to create a well-rounded wardrobe.

Ræburn

Zalando Sustainability Award Finalist, Ræburn uses a distinct utilitarian theme to create sustainable street-style designs. This collection was edgy, cool and fresh with a white, black and grey colour palette, largely consisting of casualwear such as jackets, t-shirts, shorts and trousers as well as an eye-catching parachute dress.

Aeron

Aeron’s brand focus is to produce timeless pieces for a modern women’s day-to-day wardrobe, and this collection was just that. Consisting of longline dresses, tailored blazers and trousers with a neutral colour scheme which enhanced the female form, the collection was minimalist and extremely wearable.

Rabens Saloner

Drawing inspiration from people, nature, and cultures from all over the world, Rabens Saloner created a fun vibrant yet wearable collection. Featuring everything from exaggerated skirts to mini tube dresses to sophisticated maxi dresses to tailored co-ords, this was a show to catch your eye.

P.L.N.

New talent P.L.N. made a rebellious display with a collection inspired by punk culture, goth and religious attire to create an edgy post-apocalyptic atmosphere. With an earth-toned colour scheme, the collection featured rips, raw edges, grungy leather trousers and jackets as well as mini skirts and figure-hugging tops.

Words By Emily Hemsley

^{Header Image: @cphfw}

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