In a celebration of naturalism and femininity, Burberry’s AW21 ready to wear collection appears to be a comfortable, multi-textured tribute to the power of women and Mother Nature.

In a theme that courses through the work of Riccardo Tisci, Burberry’s chief creative officer, exploration of gender and fluidity continues with this collection, as flowing silhouettes and subtle masculine edge create androgyny in the pieces. This is no conventional dedication to the power of femininity. Putting elegance first, there are no patronising feminine shapes or motifs that often feature in male-directed collections aimed at a dedication to women, and appreciation is furthered by a certain subtle expression of women’s fashion through history in the collection’s silhouettes and shapes, brought up to 2021 with experimental proportions and eyewear fit for science fiction.

The collection gives us range and diversity – between futuristic arrangements and the use of bold colour are full fur pieces, dresses, coats and hats that fulfill the ode to Mother Nature Tisci nods to. Like most of us during lockdown, Tisci found an appreciation for the natural world, and it’s apparent in the collection’s clear naturalist feel.

There is sensuality in the show’s subtlety and bare-ness,with the neutral-toned backdrop, the empowering presence of the woman, and the collection’s mix of classic Burberry colours with vivid, optimistic brights. The collection is authentically British in it’s approach to femininity, the shapes and fabrics aren’t sensual themselves, no vulgar or sexualising themes, but instead they compliment the woman wearing them – these garments allow women to be sensual, empowering, elegant on their own, which is a true celebration of femininity – for the female gaze not the male. Tisci says it himself: “It’s very sexy, I think, but without being vulgar. Femininity is something I really wanted to achieve at Burberry when I arrived, because it’s a very masculine company,”

The show was opened by British up and coming artist Shygirl, who’s spoken word performance was a captivating homage to Mother Nature and naturalism in a spiritual and almost religious approach. It was the perfect entrance to such a show, and set in stone the ambitions of the brand this season.

With no trainers or streetwear fulfilling garments in sight, this collection and show is a refresh on the way fashion seems to point at the moment, and provides an optimism about women’s fashion among the key fashion houses for the future.

Words By Daisy Greetham

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